Here we are, back for the second post of our complete build and review of the RC10 World’s Car from Team Associated. If you missed the first post with a complete unboxing (including a 20+ minute video at the end!), just click here to read through it and then come back – why not?
If you want a quick review of the build and run, check out the October 2014 edition of Radio Race Car magazine, who organized this review in partnership with RC Racing TV! We’d also like to thank CML Distribution for supplying the kit!
So without further ado, let’s crack on!
If you followed our build of the RC10 Classic, you’ll find nearly all the steps in this build familiar, so that’s the last time we’ll mention this (at least in the written bits!) – but yeah, basically because all of these parts are very very very similar to the parts of the gold tub chassis, you won’t find much different here. If you’re coming into this build ‘fresh’, however, it’s still pretty simple and straightforward. The hardest thing is probably finding the right size hex wrenches (SAE! who uses those any more?! it’s all about METRIC now, baby!), but if you’re going to be racing this car or have plans to pick up another one, it’s definitely worth the bux to pick up a set of SAE wrenches or even just one of those suckers with a hollow handle and interchangeable SAE tips – that’s what we used on this build! So let’s carry on.
Here’s the parts you’ll be working with from bags A and AA. Nothing crazy, just keep in mind (as with the rest of this build) you only get exactly enough washers, etc., to build each step. Even the e-clips are rigidly monitored! But we’ll get to those in the next step. For now, clear your workbench and follow along.
The very first thing you do is fit the front body post to the nosepiece. Ah, the memories! This one’s pretty simple. Make sure you use the right size Philips screwdriver, though – only a #2, not a Posi tip, not a #1, not a flat head. Number 2!
Use some threadlocker on the tiny screw to attach the nose to the main chassis.
Boom! And done. No, the screws aren’t fully countersunk.
And there’s the attached nosepiece.
Next up: attaching the ball ends to the steering bellcranks. Here’s where you start to wish you’d spend the 10 bucks (or Euros, or whatever) on a proper 4-40 nut driver…that plastic driver isn’t going to last the entire kit build, trust me.
First upgrade opportunity: steering bearings! We’re cheap though (just look at the many receipts for Ryanair this year!), so we’re sticking with the bronze ‘Oilite’ bushings.
There’s the steering arms, ready to install. Make sure you put the ball ends on the correct side of the arms!
Use the rear wheel nut driver to screw on the plastic bolt.
Then attach the top plastic nut over the arms and bushings.
Make sure they arms move freely. If you watch the video below, you’ll see they won’t, really, but give them some running time and the bushings will wear in.
Now for the front shock tower. Be gentle on the plastic nut drivers, if you can – that little one WILL wear out if you try to hero the nuts on. Also, use that threadlocker!
For the shock mount screw, use your hex wrench (again, this is one of those swappable-tip ones) and a pair of pliers. Again, threadlocker is your friend here!
The front shock tower, ready to attach.
And on it goes, onto the front arm mounts.
The completed assembly waiting to be installed.
And 6 more aircraft screws hold the front arm mounts in place.
And there you are! Bags A and AA done. This part goes pretty quickly, really (if you can’t tell already). Up next: Bag B! Of course…