Here’s the second installment of our exclusive Pro-Line Pro-2 short course racing truck kit build and review! If you missed the first article of this complete kit build-up, check out Part 1 with the unboxing here.

The Pro-Line Pro-2 short course racing truck has been out for a while, but this is the first and only complete build guide you can find anywhere! Read on below to read how the assembly of the front end goes!

Here’s the assembly manual, looking good! Let’s get going…

Of course you’ll need some tools to get the kit properly assembled. Pro-Line doesn’t provide any L-shaped hex wrenches, so you’ll have to supply your own. Of course, if you’re buying the Pro-2 kit you’re probably a racer already and have your chosen set of tools at hand.

The first steps of the build commence!

I used a set of sprue clippers to clip the parts off the sprues – you don’t have to use anything specialized like this, but make sure you have a decent set of side cutters to cut the parts from the sprue and a sharp hobby knife to make the cuts nice and flush.

Attaching the first bolts! The bendy bumper braces go onto the front bumper.

The front shock tower goes on the suspension block…

…and the bumper gets attached to the suspension block.

Make sure the bumper screws are screwed all the way in – you don’t want these getting hung up on any rocks or jumps.

Page 1 is done! Now we turn the page and see steps 4 through 9.

A closer look at steps 4-6

I didn’t want to put the long bolts for the top shock mounts in by hand…so I used my brand new power drill!

If you do this, make sure you use a very slow speed (the slowest the drill can go) and the lowest torque setting. A high speed can melt the plastic surrounding the bolt or screw (if the bolt is warm to the touch when it goes through, you’ve gone too fast), so be careful. Also, once the bolt is all the way in, the torque setting won’t stop a drill from continuing to turn, so be careful and GO SLOW.

Attaching the body mount – the instructions aren’t super clear here, but I installed the mount over the shock mount screws. There’s no way to install it so the mount isn’t over the screws, so I guess this is the way it goes!

Putting in the adjustable body posts is pretty clear, though – 4th hole down!

The Pro-2 uses these very cool screw-in body mounts instead of the usual body mounts you might be used to.

Pop an o-ring over the long set screws, and then the body is held in place with these large plastic nuts that have a brass nut inset. What a cool body post system!

Here’s the finished front shock tower/body mount.

Next up: camber links. I don’t look forward to these. Ever.

So I used my new drill! Get in!

Putting the opposite rod ends required some handwork, though.

I used the Associated shock building tool from the RC10 Classic build, which perfectly fitted the rod ends. Muy bueno!

Actual-size drawings are provided so you can see exactly how long the camber links should be. It’s good to know the length from center-to-center, but I think the total overall length needs to be in, in case you have a pair of calipers. It’s pretty impossible to get an accurate measurement from center-to-center by eyeball!

I used slipjoint pliers to put the ball joints in. For the short ball joints, you can just press them in.

For the longer ball joints, though, you need to carefully offset the pliers (or whatever you’re using). Make sure you don’t scratch the ball joints!

One thing to watch out for is step 9 – if you install the ball joints as shown in step 8, the ball joint in step 9 is in backwards.  If this bothers you (I like to have the wider end against the plastic, rather than against the screw head), make sure to install the outside ball joints in step 8 backwards. Not a biggie, though!

The camber links installed on the shock tower.

New page! Installing the front arms and assembling the uprights and steering hubs.

By this time…there’s a lot of bags open. More on this in a bit.

Again, plastic snips to take the sprues off the suspension arms.

VERY THICK suspension arms! And nice and bendy if you apply enough pressure, so perfect for off-road racing.

The  parts from the Protrac bag all have their part numbers molded into them, and they even tell you which side they’re supposed to be installed. That’s a really nice touch for parts that are non-symmetrical.

All of the hardware used have actual-size drawings, which is quite handy.

Before putting the arms in place, I did a test-fit and trimmed the holes  to get rid of a bit of flash around the hinge pin holes. It’s very hard to see, but that’s a tiny strip of plastic getting trimmed off the opening there.

There’s the suspension arms on!

But rut-roh, those upper arms don’t look happy. They’re certainly not flopping about very easily like the lower arms are.

So I pinched the rod ends a bit to free up the action on the ball joints.

Muy bueno!

And there we are! The front end is getting there.

Next up: the front uprights and steering knuckles. These are also labelled for each side.

Here, too, I trimmed the kingpin openings with a sharp hobby knife – you can see the amount of plastic I’m clearing away pretty easily.

There we are – the bearings and axle are in place.

Fitting the front hex hub is easy enough with a 1.5mm hex wrench.

Next page already?

Ah. Here’s a good place to prevent  a little confusion. You’ll need four parts from Bag F and four parts from Bag G here. This one isn’t so bad, as you’ll see in the next couple of pictures:

The bottom hinge pin takes the M2.5 nut, which is silver (so at least it’s easy to spot).

The camber link is held in place with the black M3 nut.

Steering links complete! I used the drill and the AE shock tool to build these up pretty quickly. Can’t beat power tools!

The next steps, and finishing of the front end is in sight!

And now…we release the chassis.

Now that the chassis is cut free, we can check out the underside of the chassis. Of course it’s perfectly flat, and the holes are nicely countersunk so the screws actually sit below the surface of the chassis.

The first step to get the front end installed is to get the steering links attached to the already-installed bellcranks. The bolts are already installed, so you just need to attach the M3 locknuts. It’s still a good idea to use a 2mm hex wrench to hold the bolt in position while tightening on the nuts.

Now to attach the fat, short screws holding the suspension mounts on.

And finally the 5 screws holding the top side on – the final screws are the two securing the bumper brace.

There we are! The front end is attached!

And as usual we’ve got a video that goes through the steps. Check it out:

We’d like to thank everyone at Pro-Line for sending us this review kit – we really have been wanting to check out this truck in person for quite some time, and we’re so happy Pro-Line graciously sent us the Pro-2 to review and share with all you RC Racing TV fans!

There’s more to come – check back on RC Racing TV real soon for more of the Pro-Line Pro-2 kit build and review!

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  1. Pingback: RCRacing.TV: Pro-Line PRO-2 Truck Review and Build | Pro-Line Factory Team

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